Femtasia in Paris : Georges Chakra 2010/11

                                                                  Femtasia in Paris                                           

Paris 2010 will be remembered in more ways than one this year, the abstract absence of couturier veteran Christian La Croix, the final collection of McQueen and the iconic classics that never falter to astonish and deliver for all those drawing inspiration from every collar, print and tailored jacket on the runway.

Standing out for me in abundance this season had to be the classic pique collection by Georges Chakra. Selecting a modest colour palette of monochrome black and white, tonal cream and pink finishing with a elegance gold tinge running hastily throughout the collection, Chakra cleverly delivered a feminine yet continental felt collection exhibiting collateral structuring,  motional tailoring and futuristic cubism in the form of cage bodices and slashed fabrics.

Talking perception, Chakra endeavoured to keep femininity in wonderland, sculpting the void ubiquitously between reality and fantasy.

What clearly displayed ‘tres joule’ designs, Chakra intertwined classic couture, drawing inspiration from powerhouse Dior and Parisian romance, structuring his silhouettes in the form of flowing fabrics, layering, chic feeling and soft shoulders. Simplicity in detail was the key for this collection, the gentle exposure of nude flesh from under the fabric emphasises the aura of delicacy about the collection.

A total of 43 dresses promenaded the catwalk compiled of asymmetric cuts, woeful necklines, and unparallel sophistication with the luxurious addition of diamond and cooling sapphire.

Key piece of the collection had to be Chakra’s eerily reflective ‘Mirage dress’, representative of the 50’s Chanel classic wedding dress, putting a refreshing post modernist twist on it, delving in to the realms of cubism in the form of a head piece merging with municipal layers of sheer sateen fabrics.

A reminder that innovation strives forward.

Images Courtesy of Style.com

Claire Levick

Stone Woman

Fast approaching A/W 11, has had us bloggers in turmoil, with blast from the past tailoring, controversy returning to the runways and minimal silhouettes to tame us. It seems extremes are dictating the runway with Heikki Salonen defying collateral by producing an adjacently military/ industrious inspired collection.

 Keeping the colour palette a simple charcoal reverberation, Salonen, focused his efforts on minimalist tailoring, boyish silhouettes, municipal layers and Lennon inspired eye wear. 

 2010, 11 silhouettes were represented in the form of simple shift dresses, 80’s style modish bombers, docks and layers. In particular harsh clasp and metal gather detail at cuffs added to the military base with symmetrical button detail and double breasted jackets finish the collection perfectly.

 Mannish leathers and harsh cottons gave way to create flow of industry and slight grunge. The meticulous assemble of the colour pallet merged perfectly with dull and matte finishes with singular stand out pieces representative of independent infrastructure.

 Stand out pieces included an ash chiffon free falling maxi with bondage style shackles and grey long sleeve shift dress with heavy duty buckles on the cuffs. Asymmetric in style, both pieces give way to contradictive style with femininity being overwhelmed by harshness and contemporary simplicity.

'Le Enfant terrible' successor to be 'Pugh'

Keeping it short and sweet as its all over the tabloids!

Still mouring the loss of one of Britains most nostalgic deisgners, McQueen's successor has already created a mass of speculation. Recent blogs and tabloids amongst the gossip it seems are favouring working class squatter Gareth Pugh according to the PPR group.

Pughs recent collections have epitomised gothic, detrimental and even evangelistic expressionism, but it all speculation points to his mimicalble Saville Row tailoring skills. Pugh hoists a tremendous innovation and creative talent with the determination for success that matched McQueens. Studing for his masters at St Martins, Pugh squatted in a warehouse to complete his debut collection before being evicted by the courts. It seems our most creative individuals draw strength and determination out of oppression!

'Le Enfant terrible' - Unruley Child

Pugh and Decon sporting Holland

Controversial, dark and original 

http://ow.ly/1fZu4

WAD Magazine and my daily Rant!

I'm going to propose something that may defy the laws of gravity (or woteva it might sound a little blazzay) ... well maybe not to the fashionistas out there. What do we think about 60's High school vs 80's Reebok retro. During my bi annual read of WAD magazine, I stumbled upon a rivival (i'm praying that the next Air Jordan is reading this) because my thinking is that were defiantely due a pop culture trend that matches the days of Andy Warhol and The Runaways!

Im thinking that shoes are the way to go, who remembers the eighties fall of the fittest 'Nike Vs Rebok' showdown? When fashion was all about the highest of the high tops and more colours in laces than Vivenne Westwood has seen in her hair lifetime! Were talking multi dimentional, space invader, ranibow/skittle/ M&M colour conversions and moreso they had to be Rebok! Recent runways have seen what?? Pixelated prints/graffiti modernist from the likes of Alexander McQueen, oooo what about Gareth Pugh and his modish approach to punk? From season to season the pallettes are integuing similar to the repertoir of the last- all we get now is silouettes/style.

Of course this makes fashion yes, but what ever happened to the days of colour clash madness, Sonkia Rykeil and Mr Marc J. see to have the same concensus as I! Any one noticed the D&G high tops, all plain white going for the high school feel?? When did fashion get boring, theres a totally massive difference between classical and just plain well................ plain.

Running the risk of sounding like a naive clueless writer, fashion seems to have lost its ability to be fashionable, as a trainee buyer myself, all were forced down is numbers this, negotiate this, better margins for that and as a business yeah, why not trends + consumer demand x margin = 16 holidays a year plus a nice Merc/ or if your me an Aston. Reflecting back in the times of the high top when kids didnt have ipods/mobiles that didnt reflect bricks, fashion was at its peak.

The only way to be truely original was to have brighter tongues, paint by numbers trainers, 16 different pairs of laces in one shoe!! And you know what all recession proof! WAD magazine 'j'adore' French produced with its English language side kick, is the most unique mag ive laid my pretty little hands on since Purple Mag joined the ranks of Fashion bibles everywhere!

Have to say the 10/10 issue really old school, packed full of fashion forward ideas, CSM students- Monik is going to be massive with his futuristic take on drama dress! Look out for that one!

Who likes the style of the ApparelJunk blog?

So im sat here working hard at my Flannels Fashion desk and here I ask, who actually reads my blog! So here is a little social experiment to find out what you guys really think of @ApparelJunk.

• Original (1 vote)
• Quirky (1 vote)
• Mundane (0 votes)
• Nothing speical, theres a million blogs out there (0 votes)

Matinaamatina Spring/Summer 2010

Matinaamatina

‘5, 4, 3, 2, 1- Lights and ready’! The flow of silk, chiffon and rayon drapes the runway. Mottled ash and draying black consume the piquet floor, glaring from the clarity of white. Stertsis a la mode season A/W 2009, set the scene of demurity and class.Drowning in convergence, a sea of Swarovski appears. ‘Martinaamatina’ awakens.Falling off the runway, Grad student of Central St. Martins College in 2005, ‘Matina Sukhahuta, created a stunning ready-to-wear and costume jewelry range chicly named ‘Martinamatina’.Inspired by the joyful magic of everyday her bespoke collection empathizes with charm and fantasy. Reflected in the navigation and layout out of Martinaamatina.com, costume jewelry poses intricacy and elegance. Studying Product design at St.Martins, her constantly inspired surrounding and high flying sibling ‘Pim Sukhahuta- house of Sretsis’ bestowed the perfect foundation to her personal acclaim launch.It seems her bespoke collection emits more originality, generously overshadowing ready-to-wear, which is a clever paradox, subtly exposing her raw talent on runway yet not overpowering Sretsis.Studying her website, it’s apparently clear she has a diverse and inventive though map, her focus on, ‘transforming the ordinary to new found treasure’ is well on its way to original establishment. With subtle, multi seasonal colours being utilised, travel being a factor of inspiration.Already internationally stocked in Thailand, Australia and upcoming (Browns New York) – ‘well see what VM they can conjure up’, Martina has a new found future. Selfridges London already commissioning her work, she has the support of her sister for ready-to-wear status, giving the brand magnanimous head start.Taking time out of shooting her A/W look book, Matina answered a few of my burning questions about her delicious S/S10 collection. Claire: What were the original concepts in your S/S 10 collection 'Teeny Tiny'?Matina: The idea was to allow the wearer to create her very own shapes, form, and color combination of jewelry to suit oneself. I imagine walking in fields of little flowers, and seeing little ladybugs and bees. And I thought wouldn't it be nice to have that on my finger. All rings from the collection were specially carved to fit each other angles, which allowed them to be worn together harmoniously. My customers have a lot of fun creating their own miniature garden, some like to wear just the little daisy and bees, while some wear them all on 3 fingers creating an ultra large cocktail ring. The collection proves tiny rings can do wonder!Claire: How do separate your work for your own collections from that of Sretsis?Matina: My work comes purely from my imagination whereas collections for Sretsis are inspired by the story of each Sretsis collection. I collaborate with my sister and translate her story into jewelry.Claire: If I were to look in your sketchbook what would I find?Matina: I actually don't own a sketch book. Everything is inside my head, in there you would find mostly things you can not physically see and feel in the real world.Claire: Who are the most inspiring artists/designers you utilize for your collections?Matina: My inspirations mostly come from books I like to read, the most inspiring was Greek mythology. The more I read the more rings popped into my head!Claire: Did you see your sister as a great foundation to getting your collection recognized?Matina: I really didn't think about the future when I first started. My sister was designing her first collection and I just wanted to make jewelry that would match her clothes. That was the beginning of our collaborations and the discovery of my passion as a jeweler.Claire: What are your immediate Plans for the future for Matinaamatina? Matina: I recently designed a custom made wedding jewelry for one of my customers here, it was such a joy. I want to start making more bespoke precious pieces.Already internationally stocked in Thailand, Australia and upcoming (Browns New York) – ‘well see what VM they can conjure up’, Martina has a new found future. Selfridges London already commissioning her work, she has the support of her sister for ready-to-wear status, giving the brand magnanimous head start. Based in London, city of smog, Swarovski is sure to be a candle in the wind come runway.‘Brava mademoiselle’Text: CLAIRE LEVICKLink:http://www.matinaamanita.com/

Jimmy Choo + UGG = DISASTER!!

LORD save us!!It would seem that the Choo diva hasn't had enough of collaborating, but a spell of disaster is on the Apparel Horizon.What can Jimmy Choo and UGG possibly cook up that will make this range a success, let's face it H&M's collection was a little avent garde, too sheepish for the highstreet, plus their price points were so confusing. If you wanted a pair of Jimmys and you cant afford £400, why would a £250 diffusion pair help out? The concept it has to be said was sound, inspiring even, the excecution however .................in my oppinion a little medioca! So what do we think we shall get with UGG+CHOO, Diamante slippers or fluffy slingback peeptoes? What ever the outcome of the collaboration, I think its safe to predict the collection will be slighty under developed, with the likes of Australia Luxe rivals on the market with their recent sell out Crackle leather boot, its going to be a tough market to compete in!Directly from Bloggers anonymous 'The two companies explained that, "the collection will be based on the construction of Ugg's sheepskin boots 'with design details that embody the spirit of the Jimmy Choo brand,'" and will retail from $595 to $795. - Yes once again cringe pricing structure............................AMEN to the girles that dare brave this collection VS

Dooney and Bourke

All aboard the vintage train.................... Next stop Cow.If you haven't heard of ow boutique, you will have after this blog. On my regular bus journey home via the city centre, i always have a quick nosey in to see what little treasures are standing out from the crowd of jumbled fashion generations. I noticed this little diamond in the rough..................(image). Cow's really getting a name for itself in the world of a vintage hunter, they have the most unique pieces, spanning accross the decades from early 20 loafers and brougues, to 60's hippy, 70's punk and 80's hi top retro. It a must go to on your weekend.It turns out that Dooney and Bourke are a fantastically well known leather specialist- massive in the states for their tailored cuts and bold shapes (kind of like a diffused LV). So when I saw this little number going for a measley £16.00 with the dirty backgorund attached I ran out of the shop with it!! (via the cash desk of course). :) Just look at it, the tan leather outershell is perfectly kempt with a rugged feel the base leather. This season S/S10 is highly focused on downsizing those massive totes and shoppers to your little cluch, box and hamper bags. This chic box bag has the most adorable strap with original buckles, kissingly complimentary yellow thread and even brass logo stamp overly authenticating the bag. Even the clasp and heavy plastic 60's style zip is appealing, its literally spans four decades in one bag. Dooney and Bourke have continuted to maintain their brand identity with sourcing the best leathers, it truely shows, I mean just look how long this bag has lasted!! If I had to pick between the Noughties range and my little boutique find, I'd definately take the vintage, any true proffessor of vintage understands that its all about the character the ageing process gives and item as well as what you can make it! LOVE IT!So to contrast with todays Dooney and Bourke:Not to mention this little lovely! Beautiful, antique pendant, blue the hot colour of S/S10 with silver intendment surround- so Titanic!Let me know what you guys think,Chic you all later x

JUNK